Put your feet up 2: Second pegging.

Last year we managed to make some off the shelf foot rest hangers fit the RC24 igving a raised peg thus better riding position and ground clearance.

Unfortunately to achieve this; the design of the hangers themselves and the way the adaptors pushed them out meant the fit was a bit untidy and wide. The worst of it was the way the rear brake master and reservoir were outside of the fairing which is untidy and made removing the tail unit a bit of a pain in the ass.

What we know

Both overlayed

OEM

2018 rearset

You can see from the images above that the original footrest clears the subframe comfortably at the cost of a low peg whereas my 2018 rearset raises the peg at cost of clearance. Note the access tot he Dzus fastener is now obscured.
Overlaying both rearsets, lined up at the bolt holes, you can see the difference in peg height.

The original 6X

It is also worth noting how the rear brake master is mounted to the reverse side (not pictured here) of the hanger and in a more vertical position. This is acted upon by a short shaft and idle arm from a low mounted brake lever.

Design ideas

The best place to find information on design ideas would be from the original bike we are trying to replicate: The HRC built Honda VFR750 RC24 6X.
You will need to click the image and do a fair bit of squinting to see what I am on about but it appears the rear master has been  mounted facing rearwards of the vertical.

After studying this and as many other images of raced RC24's that I could find, I had a vague idea of what the plate of an HRC footrest hanger looked like.
I didn't want to just jump in and make one off the bat so thought I would do some drawings.
This gave me the opportunity to make use of fusion 360's recent availability to students and hobbiests for free! This little project ended up being a great way to learn the software, which eventually spat out a rough render.
The above render uses 5mm aluminium plate. The lightening cut outs are only rough but the rest of it is measured out to be correct for the same peg location as the current foot rest and clearing the fairing with the brake master cylinder.
As for shaping, other than the lightening holes, I would look at how wide the brake master cylinder part of the bracket needs to be, maybe pull that bottom leg out to meet the corner of  said section bracket and generally tidy up some matching leg diameters and larger radiuses.

The only other thing I will need to check; is if the bracket that holds the master cylinder should be integral or bolted on. Bolting it on would offset it further inboard and might help line up with the brake pedal (which will need modifying regardless for the new angle) which is done on most modern rearsets.

I have no means to translate the 3D modelling into a finished product (No fancy CNC mill or 3D printer here) bar the old fashioned way using a hacksaw and some files so that is basically what I was going to do.
But first....

With a sheet of 8mm and 5mm Aluminium to hand I knew what I was making it out of but I also didn't really want to waste any.
As a result I decided to make a mock up out of wood to see how well it would work.
I got the dimensions for the bracket from the old rearset and adaptor then roughly shaped till the thing would fit around the chassis and subframe.
Note the rose-joint eye end now fitted to the master cylinder rather than the normal fork end.

The result already looked a lot tidier that the 2018 effort but seeing as wooden mock ups where pretty easy to make, I tried making a more traditional 2 piece option as eluded to earlier.

I lined out a foot rest hangar in the same way as before. When I was getting more invested in the idea, I lopped the top off the previous 1 piece bracket and used that to see where the rear master wound up.
The rear brake master cylinder was really nicely tucked in and would line up very well with the lever well clear of the bracket now. As an added bonus, should I have a spill and brake the foot rest hangar, I might not have to replace the whole thing if it is two bits.

 I now knew what I was going for so I finished the wooden template a bit more and traced it out onto the 8mm Aluminium plate.
This sheet of aluminium I was using is a beast to cut and the disk on my mitre saw was getting a bit tired so was a bit of effort to get through but thankfully it lasted long enough to rough cut the hanger out.

I realised early on that getting the forward face, bolt holes and top sorted was my first  job so I could test fit the bracket earlier to make sure I wasn't working on a dud.
I noticed early on that in my fragmented build (this took a few days to do, much longer than I had anticipated), I had forgotten to give myself more land on the bottom mounting bolt hole. Not the end of the world as the material is so thick but would have helped the asthetics a bit.

I used a 6mm drill bit to drill all of the corners so they would have a nice radius and to help with cutting, especially in the middle lightened area. After a lot of time with a jigsaw (which wasn't really cutting it) and more sweatily with a hacksaw, I got the middle bit out.

The other bonus of getting the bolt holes in early was that I could bolt my template to the metal. This way I could easily copy its shape and not wary about the WD40, which I was using as cutting coolant, removing my pen lines.
The result was starting to look a bit like a conga eel head with its mouth open and you might have noticed its little Mohawk.  This will be where the rear brake master cylinder bracket will be bolted on but more about that later.
I continued to rough shape things with a rasp, periodically offering the bracket up to the motorcycle.
The subframe was being a tosser, twisting and making the bolt alignment crap so that will need sorting later but in the end I was able to get my rough shape right without setting fire to any bikes.
I used the old bracket, lined up with markings I had tacked previously, to make sure my peg hole woud end up in the correct place. Once happy I drilled this out ready for the bolt to pass through and did another check fit.
The mohawk was now cut in by 4mm, two 6mm holes drilled into it and both mounting holes were counter sunk to allow the Allen bolts to sit flush. Finally the shape was finished and edges chamfered with a  medium file then emery cloth.
 A rear brake master cylinder bracket was then stencilled and cut out of 5mm sheet.
I started with a rough shape, then using washers as templaces, I made the bolt hole lugs and drew paralel lines on the aft side from the more critical forward side (for subframe clearance reasons).
That aside, the process was basically the same as my previouse effort just smaller thus a fair bit quicker.
Once shaping was done I used a large sanding disk to give the all of the outwardfaces a rough cut and assembled to another check fit.


I was hoping I could cut off and relocate the brake lever lug to the new, more useful location but it was too short so had to make a new one.
Luckly I have crap loads of off-cuts to use so found one that would do the trick.
I roughly shaped the top to match the curve of the lever then Tig welded it on with an R-tech digital tig 170.
 Once the bearing had stopped throwing grease vapour at me (it did't want to come out so I cooked it) I filed the weld bead back and shaped the lug to a slightly more rounded shape than it had started out at.
I then cut the old lug off and rounded the whole back end to look a bit more like it was supposed to look like this.
Once things were tidy looking and I had stopped dropping the bloody thing, I got out the polishing kit and gave everything a quick buff up.
I didn't want things too shiny, its not a custom cruiser after all, but I am happy with the end result.

All that was left to do was to lock everything up properly and fit to the motorcycle. This was pretty straight forward and looked mega tidy which was a relief.
The rear brake line was now hopelessly long however so something was going to need to be done about that. I was thinking of doing an under slung caliper (6x styly) but I didn't have time for that so I decided to get what I had fitted finished.
I was a bit short on time but could have popped to B&C to have a brake line custom made the same day. As it happened I had something sat in a box (therefore justifying why I keep everything) so I got it all fit up with fresh brake fluids till the EBC HH sintered bronze pads bit convincingly into my less convincing looking rear disk.
Well who uses the rear brake anyway?