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Forking about

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After sorting my rear shock out, thoughts moved to suspension setup and the front end suddenly looked less than sorted. A short bit of messaging to  Classic Racing Green  had me working on a plan. The VFR had a Honda CBR600 F3 front end stuck on it when I converted the bike a couple of years ago for racing. Other than change some fork seals and a fluid change, I didn't really play about with the forks much. Andy at Classic Racing Green sent me to the  Race Tech  website where, after plugging in some details, it recommended some rather heavy fork springs. This was for a CBR600 F3 however and not a lardy VFR750 but even then we thought it was a bit excessive.  The front spring rate I was being recommended was: 1.24 kg/mm where the stock rate was: 0.7 kg/mm. Now normally you work in Newtons when doing fork setup (multiply by gravity 9.81) so that does need taking into account here but this spring rate seemed to high to Andy. I could however manipulate the figures it would give

More bits 'n' bobs

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Here is another great example of me uploading images to Blogger then not actually writing the blog. So one year later, here we go..... for 2019 I had a few jobs to do to rectify some issues I had found. First up was the subframe mod I had made to get the old Ragged edge racing fairing to fit. His was a copy of an FJ/K race fairing with a highly raked tail unit. Not a bad looking fairing at all but it wasn't a straight forward fit. The sheet metal I had used was only ever meant to be temporary and needed something a bit stronger. I chose to make a box section U shape using the one bit of box I had already cut and drilled. Two matching arms were then made and the ends cut int a sort of flap to rest on the cross piece I had previously welded in. The finished job isn't too heavy and has survived a season so far so plenty strong enough to take the weight of my back side. Uprated EBC discs and pads were a slightly more exciting bolt on modification. EBC discs are a str

Winter work

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It's winter and it's time to get to work on the VFR750. What can we find to fiddle with this time? I really had very few plans for this winter work on the VFR. It had worked superbly all season but I was starting to find more of the bikes limits. The VFR took second place to the RD250  which had more work to do on it so aside from draining the water out, I didn't get to touch the VFR till mid January but back to the plan. What I would like is: More ground clearance. More brakes. Shocker The first point was very apparent at Donny and Mallory. As you can see from the image below, I have some serious ground clearance problems still, despite my best efforts to tidy things up before. Credit PJM photography for the shot and Ragged edge racing for the fairing I am currently destroying. As you can see on the left, the YSS shock is a bit of an upgrade on the standard 30 year old original. This shouldn't really come as a shock as that is its job! It is a

can't take the heat

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Cooling was a large issue for the VFR during 2018. This was especially true at Darley Moor (above) where the bike's temperature would rapidly climb above 100 degrees Celsius whilst heading back to the pit. A quick answer was to remove the thermostat but by the time that became apparent to me, the worst of the hot weather was behind us so I never bothered. Another was to add the missing front infill fairing which is designed to direct air into the race radiators on the 6x but this masks the bottom of the OEM radiator. I tried this but it didn't make things any better. I looked into what twin radiator setups people were using. I say a few expensive custom jobs, second hand offerings from from bikes like the Suzuki TL1000R and new aftermarket offerings. My answer was to buy a twin radiator setup for a Honda VFR400 NC30. The top core is as wide and deeper than the 30 year old OEM  core but not as tall. The lower core would more than make up for any loss in frontal

Put your feet up 2: Second pegging.

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Last year we managed to make some off the shelf foot rest hangers fit the RC24 igving a raised peg thus better riding position and ground clearance. Unfortunately to achieve this; the design of the hangers themselves and the way the adaptors pushed them out meant the fit was a bit untidy and wide. The worst of it was the way the rear brake master and reservoir were outside of the fairing which is untidy and made removing the tail unit a bit of a pain in the ass. What we know Both overlayed OEM 2018 rearset You can see from the images above that the original footrest clears the subframe comfortably at the cost of a low peg whereas my 2018 rearset raises the peg at cost of clearance. Note the access tot he Dzus fastener is now obscured. Overlaying both rearsets, lined up at the bolt holes, you can see the difference in peg height. The original 6X It is also worth noting how the rear brake master is mounted to the reverse side (not pictured her